[. . . ] If there is nothing wrong with the hose and the hose fitting, completely remove the caliper hose assembly. Note: For the G1 caliper, remove the banjo bolt using a 4mm Allen Wrench- but leave the banjo attached to the hose - that way you don't have to replace the compression bushing when you are all done. [. . . ] When you remove the two bridge bolts, the caliper will come apart into two pieces. There will be an inner and an outer caliper half and an O-ring between. Caution: Do not scratch O-ring groove when removing the O-ring, as this could cause the O-ring to leak. With your finger tip sealing off the bleeder or banjo hole, angle the caliper so the piston is facing downward, then direct pressurized air thru the hole that connects the 2 halves together. Remove the piston and square seal from the opposing caliper half in the same way. Then use compressed air to blow dry and remove all of the remaining dirt, etc. Insert the bridge bolts, snug them, and then torque them to 110 in. -lbs +/- 10 in-lbs. Clean the caliper of any excess brake fluid by spraying it with isopropyl alcohol and wiping it down with a clean cloth. Note: Bleeders do not have to be replaced every time the caliper is rebuilt. If it is necessary to replace the bleeder, it is available as a service kit. The thread sealant on the bleeder is there only to seal during the bleeding process. If it wears off, replace it with a wrap of Teflon tape thread sealant. [. . . ] If it wears off, replace it with a wrap of Teflon tape thread sealant. Ensure that all parts of the hose connection are clean and free of any hair, dirt etc. , and that the O-rings are not torn or chipped, and assemble the hose connection back onto the caliper in the original position. [. . . ]